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lex·i·con /ˈlɛk.sɪ.kən/ the vocabulary of a subject, collected and defined

The fragrance lexicon.

Every term you'll meet on your way to knowing your taste (perfume notes, sillage, concentrations, and the language of sampling), defined in plain language, cross-referenced, and linked to a full guide where one exists.

74 entries · five chapters

74 shown
01

Composition

27 entries

what a fragrance is made of, and how its parts are described

perfume notes#

Perfume notes are the individual scent ingredients that make up a fragrance: raw materials such as rose, sandalwood, or bergamot that a perfumer combines to build the overall composition. Notes are usually listed in three tiers: top, heart, and base.

cf.accord, olfactory pyramidfull guide →The notes directory →

top notes#

Top notes are the first scents you smell on spraying, typically light and citrus-forward, lasting the first 15–30 minutes before the heart emerges. Bright openings sell bottles in store, which is why judging a perfume on its top notes alone is risky.

cf.heart notes, base notes, dry-down

heart notes#

Heart notes are the core of a fragrance, appearing as the top notes fade, usually floral or spice accords lasting one to three hours. They define a scent’s character more than any other layer.

cf.top notes, base notes

base notes#

Base notes are the deep, long-lasting foundation of a fragrance: woods, musks, resins, and ambers that anchor the lighter notes above them and remain on skin for hours or days.

cf.dry-down, longevity

olfactory pyramid#

The olfactory pyramid is the top-heart-base model describing how a fragrance unfolds over time. A marketing simplification (real compositions blur the layers), but a useful first map when reading a note list.

cf.top notes, heart notes, base notes

accord#

An accord is a blend of two or more raw materials that together create a new, unified impression different from any single ingredient, as chords are to notes in music. Common accords: rose-oud, citrus-musk, fougère.

cf.perfume notes, fougèreThe notes directory →

anchor#

An anchor is the heavier fragrance in a layered pairing: the scent that sets the base direction and is still present hours in. Woods, ambers, musks, and vanilla anchor well because their base notes persist. The anchor goes on first; the lighter accent sits above it.

cf.accent, base notesfull guide →

accent#

An accent is the lighter fragrance in a layered pairing: the scent that adds lift over a heavier anchor. Citrus, airy florals, green notes, and clean musks make forgiving accents. One accent at a time is the beginner’s rule: each extra scent multiplies the ways a pairing can clash.

cf.anchor, accordfull guide →

chypre#

Chypre is a classic family built on a citrus opening over a mossy, woody base: bergamot, labdanum, oakmoss. Elegant, slightly bitter, unmistakably grown-up.

cf.fragrance familiesChypre notes in the directory →

fougère#

Fougère is the great barbershop family: lavender, geranium, oakmoss, coumarin. The backbone of classic masculine perfumery: fresh, aromatic, faintly powdery.

cf.accord, fragrance familiesIn the notes directory →

dry-down#

The dry-down is the final phase of a fragrance’s life on skin, after the volatile notes burn off: what a scent becomes, hours in. Many fragrances are bought on their opening and regretted on their dry-down.

cf.base notes, blind buy

aldehyde#

Aldehydes are synthetic materials that add a sparkling, soapy, champagne-fizz lift to a composition, most famously in the grand florals of the 1920s onwards. “Aldehydic” describes that clean, slightly waxy shimmer.

cf.white florals, powdery

amber#

Amber is a warm, sweet, resinous fragrance family built on materials like labdanum, vanilla, and benzoin. The industry renamed the “oriental” family to amber in recent years; older reviews and note pyramids still use the retired name, so read the two as one family.

cf.resinous, vanilla, fragrance familiesIn the notes directory →

animalic#

Animalic describes notes with a warm, feral edge: musk, civet, castoreum (today recreated synthetically), leather, and honeyed skin effects. Used in traces, animalic materials add depth and sensuality; overdosed, they growl.

cf.musk, indolic

aromatic#

Aromatic describes herbal, green-spicy notes (lavender, rosemary, sage, mint) that smell of the herb garden rather than the flower bed. The signature of the fougère family and much of classic masculine perfumery.

cf.fougère, green

balsamic#

Balsamic describes the sweet, warm, slightly medicinal character of natural balsams and resins: benzoin, Peru balsam, tolu. The comfort-blanket base of many amber compositions.

cf.resinous, vanilla

gourmand#

A gourmand is a fragrance built on edible notes: vanilla, caramel, chocolate, coffee, praline. The family that smells like dessert; polarising at full strength, irresistible in moderation.

cf.vanilla, amber

green#

Green describes notes that smell of cut grass, leaves, and snapped stems: galbanum, violet leaf, fig leaf. Crisp and outdoorsy; the scent of spring gardens rather than the flowers themselves.

cf.aromatic, fougère

indolic#

Indolic describes white flowers with a heady, overripe edge: jasmine, tuberose, and orange blossom owe their intensity to indole, a molecule they share. In small doses it reads as lush; in large, almost narcotic.

cf.white florals, animalic

Iso E Super#

Iso E Super is a modern synthetic with a smooth, woody, velvety effect that seems to hover just above the skin. Some noses barely detect it; others get it strongly, a famous quirk of a material entire minimalist fragrances are built on.

cf.musk, skin scent

musk#

Musk is perfumery’s soft, warm, skin-like base note, today produced synthetically (white musks) rather than from animals. Clean laundry, warm skin, quiet sensuality: musk is the note you stop noticing but would miss.

cf.skin scent, animalicIn the notes directory →

oud#

Oud is resin-saturated agarwood: dark, woody, leathery, sometimes medicinal or smoky. Central to Middle Eastern perfumery for centuries and a defining note of modern niche; real oud is rare and costly, so most oud on shelves is a reconstruction.

cf.amber, nicheIn the notes directory →

powdery#

Powdery describes the soft, cosmetic, iris-and-violet character reminiscent of face powder or lipstick wax. A vintage-leaning texture that reads as elegant to some noses and dated to others.

cf.aldehyde, musk

resinous#

Resinous describes notes drawn from tree saps and gums: frankincense, myrrh, labdanum, elemi. Dense, warm, faintly smoky materials that anchor ambers and incense fragrances.

cf.balsamic, amber

vanilla#

Vanilla is perfumery’s most beloved sweet base note, from true vanilla absolute to vanillin, its synthetic heart. Comforting and creamy in gourmands; darker and boozier in ambers.

cf.gourmand, amberBest-of rankings →

white florals#

White florals are the big, heady flowers (jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, orange blossom) that dominate a composition rather than decorate it. Radiant and opulent, with an indolic edge at full bloom.

cf.indolic, fragrance families

02

Performance

14 entries

how a fragrance behaves on skin and in a room

sillage#

Sillage is the scent trail a fragrance leaves behind: how far it travels from the skin and how noticeable it is to the people you pass. High sillage fills a room; low sillage stays intimate. Distinct from projection, the bubble around you while standing still.

cf.projection, longevityRated in every review →

projection#

Projection is how far a fragrance radiates from your body while you’re standing still: the bubble around you. Distinct from sillage, the trail you leave when moving.

cf.sillage, beast mode, scent bubble

longevity#

Longevity is how long a fragrance remains detectable on skin, from spray to the last trace of dry-down. Heavily affected by skin chemistry, concentration, and weather, which is why the same bottle behaves differently on two people.

cf.skin chemistry, Eau de Parfum (EDP)Rated in every review →

skin chemistry#

Skin chemistry is the way your individual skin (its pH, oils, temperature, even diet) changes how a fragrance smells and lasts on you. The single biggest reason to sample on skin before buying.

cf.sample, longevity

beast mode#

Beast mode is community shorthand for a fragrance with enormous projection and longevity: one or two sprays carry a full day and announce you before you enter. A compliment or a warning, depending on the office.

cf.projection, longevity

skin scent#

A skin scent is a fragrance that sits close to the skin, noticeable only within arm’s reach: “your skin, but better.” The opposite pole from beast mode; prized for intimacy and office safety.

cf.beast mode, sillage, musk

linear#

A linear fragrance smells essentially the same from spray to dry-down, rather than unfolding through distinct phases. Not a flaw (you always know what you’re wearing), but noses that love development find linear scents dull.

cf.dry-down, olfactory pyramid

wear test#

A wear test is a full day spent with one fragrance on skin (through commute, office, weather, and evening) before judging it. One proper wear test tells you more than ten paper strips at a counter.

cf.sample, skin chemistry

spray count#

Spray count is how many sprays a fragrance needs, and tolerates. A dense extrait may want two; a light cologne, six or more. Performance reviews are meaningless without one.

cf.projection, concentration

scent bubble#

The scent bubble is the invisible radius within which your fragrance is noticeable: the practical, everyday measure of projection. Office etiquette in one image: keep your bubble smaller than your desk.

cf.projection, skin scent

olfactory fatigue#

Olfactory fatigue, or nose-blindness, is your nose tuning out a smell after continuous exposure, which is why you stop noticing your own perfume within an hour while everyone else still does. Re-applying because “it’s gone” is how beast mode happens by accident.

cf.scent bubble, wear test

scrubber#

A scrubber is community slang for a fragrance so wrong on your skin that you head straight for the sink. One person’s scrubber is another’s signature: the argument for sampling before spending.

cf.wear test, blind buy

perfume allergy#

A perfume allergy is an immune response to one or more fragrance ingredients, typically causing skin irritation, headaches, or respiratory symptoms. If you react to a product, stop wearing it and consider patch-testing new scents on a small area first; the guide covers symptoms and safer alternatives.

cf.fragrance-freefull guide →

fragrance-free#

Fragrance-free products contain no added fragrance ingredients, formulated for people with scent sensitivities or allergies. Not the same as “unscented”, which may use masking scents to neutralise base odours; read labels carefully if you react.

cf.perfume allergyfull guide →

03

Concentrations

9 entries

the strength ladder: how much perfume is actually in the bottle

concentration#

Concentration is the proportion of aromatic compounds in a fragrance: the ladder from eau fraîche up to extrait that largely determines strength, longevity, and price. The ranges are conventions, not regulations: houses vary, so treat every tier as “typically”.

cf.Eau de Parfum (EDP), extrait de parfum

extrait de parfum#

Extrait de parfum is the strongest common concentration, typically 20–40% aromatic compounds. Dense, long-lasting, worn in small doses; usually the most expensive form of a scent.

cf.Eau de Parfum (EDP)

Eau de Parfum (EDP)#

Eau de Parfum (EDP) is a concentration tier of typically 15–20% aromatic compounds in alcohol. An EDP usually lasts longer and projects more than the same scent’s EDT, and it is the most common tier in premium fragrance today.

cf.Eau de Toilette (EDT), extrait de parfum, longevity

Eau de Toilette (EDT)#

Eau de Toilette (EDT) is the tier of typically 5–15% aromatic compounds, lighter, brighter, often fresher in character than the same scent’s EDP, and friendlier to hot weather and offices.

cf.Eau de Parfum (EDP), Eau de Cologne (EDC)

Eau de Cologne (EDC)#

Eau de Cologne (EDC) is historically a citrus-herbal style; today also the typically 2–5% concentration tier: light, splashy, short-lived, made for refreshment. In US usage, “cologne” loosely means any men’s fragrance.

cf.Eau de Toilette (EDT), eau fraîche

eau fraîche#

Eau fraîche is the lightest tier, typically 1–3% aromatic compounds, often carried in more water than alcohol. A splash of scent for gym bags and heatwaves, gone within the hour and made for it.

cf.Eau de Cologne (EDC)

parfum de toilette#

Parfum de toilette is a largely retired tier from the 1980s, sitting between EDT and EDP in strength. Found today mostly on vintage listings; treat it as an EDP in all but name.

cf.Eau de Parfum (EDP), Eau de Toilette (EDT)

attar#

An attar is an alcohol-free, oil-based perfume, traditionally distilled into a sandalwood base, one of perfumery’s oldest forms, worn in tiny dabs rather than sprays. Dense, long-lasting, and close to the skin.

cf.extrait de parfum, oud

aftershave#

Aftershave is the lightly scented, typically 1–3% lotion or splash applied after shaving, built to soothe skin first and scent second. Its fragrance rarely outlasts the morning; a matching EDT carries the scent through the day.

cf.Eau de Cologne (EDC), concentration

04

Sampling & shopping

19 entries

the vocabulary of buying and wearing well: Scenday’s home ground

sample#

A sample is a small vial, usually 1–2ml, enough for several proper wearings on skin. The cheapest insurance in perfumery: the whole point of sampling first is never paying full-bottle price to learn a scent isn’t you.

cf.decant, discovery set, sample-firstSample-size drops →

decant#

A decant is fragrance transferred from an original bottle into a smaller one, typically 5–10ml, sold or swapped so you can live with a scent for weeks without buying the full bottle.

cf.sample, testerfull guide →Decants and drops →

tester#

A tester is a retail demonstration bottle (same juice, plain packaging, often no cap) sold legitimately at a discount. Tester listings are usually genuine; sealed “testers” at deep discounts deserve scrutiny.

cf.batch code, grey market

flanker#

A flanker is a spin-off of an existing fragrance sharing its name and bottle design with a twist: Intense, Elixir, Sport. Sometimes a masterpiece, sometimes a label exercise; never assume it smells like the original.

cf.batch code, reformulationIn the repertoire →

batch code#

A batch code is the small printed code identifying when and where a bottle was produced. Used to gauge age, verify authenticity, and compare reformulation eras.

cf.reformulation, tester

reformulation#

Reformulation is a change to a fragrance’s recipe after release, for ingredient regulation, cost, or supply. The reason a beloved scent can smell different from an older bottle, and why batch codes matter to collectors.

cf.batch code

niche#

Niche describes independent or artistic fragrance houses selling primarily through specialist channels: smaller batches, bolder ideas, higher prices. A marketing category as much as a quality tier: niche means different, not automatically better.

cf.designer, oudNiche houses →

designer#

Designer describes fragrances from fashion and beauty houses sold through mainstream retail: broad appeal, big budgets, accessible prices. The counterpart to niche; many of the greatest perfumes ever made are designer.

cf.niche, flankerDesigner houses →

grey market#

The grey market is genuine fragrance sold outside a brand’s authorised retail channels: how discount sites price below department stores. Legal and usually authentic, but warranties, returns, and storage conditions are the buyer’s risk.

cf.tester, batch code

presentation#

Presentation is everything around the juice: bottle, cap, box, and finish. Collectors pay for it, minimalists ignore it; either way it is part of the price, worth judging separately from the scent itself.

cf.shelf life, designer

shelf life#

Shelf life is how long a fragrance stays true after production, commonly 3–5 years opened, far longer unopened and stored well. Citrus-heavy scents fade fastest; dense ambers can outlive their owners.

cf.storage, batch code

storage#

Good fragrance storage is cool, dark, and stable: a drawer or box, never a sunny bathroom shelf. Heat, light, and oxygen are what turn a top note sour and a juice dark.

cf.shelf life

05

The Scenday vocabulary

5 entries

terms we coined: how Scenday talks about deciding

scent profile#

A scent profile is a summary of an individual’s fragrance preferences: the notes, families, and moods they gravitate toward. The general term; Scenday’s implementation of it is your Scent DNA.

cf.Scent DNABuild your profile →

the five decisionsScenday#

The five decisions are the full life of owning fragrance well: sample · buy · wear · keep · replace. Scenday’s framework: every tool and guide serves one of the five.

cf.Scent DNA, sample-firstThe five decisions →

sample-firstScenday#

Sample-first is the principle that skin comes before spend: no full bottle until the scent has earned it on your skin, in your life. The philosophy the whole platform is built around.

cf.sample, blind buySample-first drops →

the firewallScenday#

The firewall is Scenday’s rule that recommendations are computed before any partner link is attached: no fragrance house pays for placement, and money can’t move the call. The reason the answer is worth having.

cf.the five decisionsmethodology →Read the firewall →

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